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Recon CS-6 Mods (Toys uPrise Inside)

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Recon CS-6 Mods (Toys uPrise Inside)

    • …SO; You have a new Narf Recon CS6 that you feel does not have enough strength to take out your attackers. Sure, itz a great gun, but what if you just want to put a dart thru a wall, or punch right thru that annoying TV screen… here’s whatcha do…

      Gather your tools-

      Small Phillips Screwdriver (for most screws)
      Precision Phillips (for smaller sizes)
      Half-round File (for modifying foregrip)
      Drill w/LONG 1/2” bit (for AR removal)
      PVC cutter (MOD 4) -or-
      Hacksaw (MOD 4)

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      3 wire hangers, cut into 8-10in sections (paint hooks)
      Flat Black spraypaint
      Metallic Brass spraypaint
      Model paints (Gold, Copper, and Bronze)
      *for a patina, use green paint diluted w/thinner (a wash)
      Small cardboard box (flatter narrow ones are best- like 24 can caseboxes) -(These are used in painting the tiny parts that will not hang on a hook)

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      Now we are ready to begin:

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      If you lay the receiver on it’s right side, (MILITARY RIGHT), you will find (see)15 screws. Most are found in the body of the gun. Two are in the slide, and two more are in the very front, hidden behind the slide. Finally, there are two more in the butt of the receiver, holding on the black cylindrical thing.

      *CAUTION* Underneath is the spring that operates the main assembly; watch your eyes! Just let the spring expand and pop out. (It won’t fly out)

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      Close-ups of the assembly for reference later…

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      DISASSEMBLY OF SIGHT HOUSING

      There are six screws that hold this together. Five on the housing, and one for the battery cover. Be very careful, and open SLOWLY, once the screws are removed. You will want to pay VERY CLOSE attention to where the slider switch is positioned, and the placement of the tiny circuit board & wires. Remove the internals, and place in a safe spot, as assembly is in day 2 or 3, depending on how long you wish to give the paint to cure.

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      DISASSEMBLY OF FOREGRIP

      There are six easy screws (GIGGITY) holding this together. The orange ends pop out easily…

      If you are modifying the barrel, you will now need to start filing away all of the material on the inside of the foregrip that is preventing the barrel housing from coming together. ALSO- you will need to file away some material from the inside of the forward piece that holds the front sight… Do not worry about the rear part… it is not affected.

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      Small interior parts of receiver, layed out basically the way they fit into position. You can see that I used a lid to collect screws into, and also used my precision screwdriver box to hold tiny parts in…

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      AR (Air Restrictor) removal:

      The long cylindrical object near the top of the pic, that has the spring on it…contains the AR. To remove the slide linkage, use a tiny precision screwdriver and the handle of your regular screwdriver to drive out the pin, located in the upper section of the linkage. Using a drill, remove the AR from the cylinder. CAREFULLY!! (I held it in my hand)

      MOD 1 = Remove spring, & s t r e t c h it a bit.
      MOD 2 = Remove AR.
      MOD 3 = Replace the O-ring inside the cylinder housing with one found at a hardware or automotive store, with one just a bit larger. CHECK FOR FIT BEFORE YOU BUY THE WRONG ONE …most stores will let you- I was amazed, and the Auto parts store let me walk thru w/them to the back. The O-ring should fit snugly, while still allowing a relatively easy slide into the housing… Too tight, and it will NOT fire. ALSO- it is a MUST to use vasoline or white grease to lube the inside of the piston housing if you use this mod…
      MOD 4 = Replace stupid stock barrel, with a 2ft sprinkler riser. Cut off a piece of it with a PVC cutter or hacksaw. Use a 1/2-threaded coupling for a screw-on effect flash suppressor…
      Mod 5 = The BINFORD X-51 Mod – Spudgun mod!! :D

      The larger parts, waiting for painting…

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      As a guide, yellow thingz go black, and orange things go metallic. Have your plan for painting set up…Where can you hang your hooks? Where can you spray, that will not be affected by the overspray if you catch some wind… Spray the parts lightly, and do NOT try to cover it all on the first shot- TRUST ME- you risk causing the paint to bubble up or run. Two or three lighter coats is MUCH better than one thick one, as if the paint is too thick in certain areas, it will hinder performance.

      ASSEMBLY NOTES:

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      Before tightening the foregrip, use the connector piece from the front of the receiver to be sure of barrel alignment. In most cases, the barrel will be too far to the back, and will not let the pieces fit together. This will need to be adjusted by sliding it forward. THIS is where the use of the connector as a tool REALLY helps…

      Hope this was as much fun for you as it was for me… I started small, with a little Maverick, but now; I am CURIOUS as to what is inside the mighty full-auto Vulcan…

      Have Fun & Happy Modding!! :wink:

      FAKE EDIT- Depending on qwestshunz and responses, I will add pix, linx, or additional instructions…. TBC

      If more images are needed, they can be found in my FB Album CS-6 Mods here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1572496519686.79396.1453710405&type=3

      THE BINFORD X-51 MOD –

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    • Robin Hood
      Participant

      A few recomendations:
      1. Streaching spring is bad, replace it with a firmer spring instead stock spring is 2.5kg you can replace up to 7kg without damage to the blaster if you pad the plunger head with felt. Also there are 2 holes on the dart housing that should be covered with a dab of hot glue, epoxy, or electrical tape to prevent more air from escaping.
      2. Vaseline or petrol based lubes as well as wd40 and aresol lubes are bad for the O-ring and any other rubber as it eats away with time and use. Fishing reel lube is safe on plastic, rubber and metal.
      3. If an O-ring can’t be found you can use the original and use teflon tape around the plunger head and then put the stock o-ring on top.

      Hope this helps out.

    • I’ve actually been considering buying one of the polycarb Recon Massacre Kits that are made by a company called Orange Mod Works. Anyone know anything about this company or how well their kits improve blaster performance? The 6 kg main spring and stronger polycarbonate internal parts look very tempting.

    • Robin Hood
      Participant

      good company, the stuff is more expensive then the blaster. if you are getting something from them, buy in bulk. better for the shipping and handeling

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